Miscellaneous

Commercial Construction

Sanford Loy, CCM  (Web Site: http://www.constructionplus.com/)

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Questions 11-13 of 13:


  1. My house has a crawl space. The space appears to have an adequate number of vents. Should the dirt floor have a vapor barrier? If so, how much of the dirt should be covered? I have read conflicting opinions. Some say the whole dirt floor should be covered. Others say the vapor barrier should cover about 80% of the ground with 6 mil plastic leaving several feet around the perimeter exposed. Any advice that you might have would be appreciated. - Mike Blackburn from Maryville, Tn
    This is an answer with many variables. Due to those variables... such as when your house was built, how deep the crawl space is, the orientation of yo   » more
    This is an answer with many variables. Due to those variables... such as when your house was built, how deep the crawl space is, the orientation of your house on the site, moisture content and type of soil, weather etc. I will try to give you information which will enable you to make the right decision. There could be cases where a complete covering is needed, but those are unusual in my opinion. The primary purpose of the vapor barrier is to keep the moisture level in the space low enough to prevent organic growth on the structure of your house; which could cause damage enough to be unsafe over time. There are also health concerns from mold which makes managing the humidity level important. Because of all the variables you need to have your structure inspected, you can do this yourself if you want by looking for mold or other growth on the wood joists. Black mold needs immediate attention. If there is no growth visible and the air doesn't smell musty a vapor varrier may not be needed. You may put one down for piece of mind or if the air does smell musty or growth is visible. The mill thickness is only relevant to the durability of the plastic, so put as thick a barrier down as you can afford. The thicker it is the more difficul it is to work with in a tight space so don't go overboard here. I would recommend leaving the perimeter open for 18-24 inches to allow the moisture you do capture, as well as condensation to escape. If the moisture has no place to go your could create an environment which postulates mold and do more harm than good. Again, consider your home's condition,inspect the soil and wood, if the soil is dry, and the wood is clean, I would leave well enough alone. If you have an older home which is more likely ot have joists closer than 24 inches to the soil, I would install a barrier as a precaution to keep whatever is in the soil from getting into your homes air. Also if you have a home which has had a HVAC duct system installed after the initial construction the ducts could be close to the soil and I personally would prefer to have a barrier under them as a precautionary measure as well. If you feel a barrier is needed leave some room for it to breath around the perimeter and around any pilasters you may have as well. If you have more questions after you read this please feel free to ask and good luck. Sandy   « less
  2. This is a question about residential concrete. We built our dream home that we have waited a lifetime for. The driveway,we were told would not need any steel in it because of the new fiberglass in the concrete. We believed him and now our dirve is falling literaly apart. We have tired to get him to return to finish the stamping and he won't, so I know that he won't do a thing about this. The concrete is hollow sounding where the breaks are the worst. Do you have any suggestions? Can this be fixed without replacing the entire thing. The house is only 3 yrs old. We have our hearts and souls in this. Plese help. - Frank from Dandridge,Tn.
    Frank, Sorry for the delay answering your question, I had a few problems getting to the right place online but we have that under control now. As f   » more
    Frank, Sorry for the delay answering your question, I had a few problems getting to the right place online but we have that under control now. As for the problem, I feel your pain! I have seen this before and there are so many variables I can't explain them all here. I would need to look at it to give you an opinion of substance. The fiber mesh concrete is a great product but there are other variables which might make wire mesh more desirable, and many variables concerning the material below the concrete and the weather when it was poured etc. Concrete is the one material with the most chances for something to go wrong with because of all the material, installation, and atmospheric variables involved. Depending on the extent of the damage and all the loading variables there are remedies which might solve your problem without removing and repouring. The hollow sounding part is not good news and the concrete could have been poured too stiff and not vibrated to insure consolidation. I would have to see it to offer an opinion. If you will go to my website, and send me a way to contact you to set up a time I will come by an look at it for you. I also know a retired licensed Architect who lives in Dandridge who could come look at it for you if you would prefer. Let me know if I can help further. Sandy   « less
  3. I am a recent graduate with a bachelors degree in a related field. I have been job hunting for almost 10 months without any luck acquiring a full time job. Is finding a job in our economic situation futile? Is there a specific industry related to construction and architecture that is not being hurt by the economy? Can you think of any specific things I should be doing or people I should be talking to? Thank you. - Katie from Knoxville, TN
    Katie, There is no industry I know of which is immune to the economic downturn. When I graduated form college I faced a similar environment and took a   » more
    Katie, There is no industry I know of which is immune to the economic downturn. When I graduated form college I faced a similar environment and took an alternative career path because I had a family to feed. I went to work for TVA as an engineering aide and went on to get my Masters in Engineering and worked as an engineer for 8 years before getting into construction. So your thought process is well founded. I would recommend checking into places where they offer design assistance with retail sales, such as upscale furniture stores where you could be a sales person and design assistant both. You might not make much during this time but you could have something to put on your resume, even if you work for free some of the time. Not knowing what your degree is specifically or what you are looking to do I can't help much more, other than to say you might find an administrative job inside a business which would be someplace you would like to work, get in and get your work habits and attitude in front of them. If you are dependable and pleasant to work with, when things turn around you'll be the person they hire for the better job. Believe me, employers are looking for dependable people with positive attitudes who show up on time and have initiative. Education gets you considered, attitude will get you the job. You have to get in front of someone to get that connection. Do what you have to do to get in fornt of them, even if you have to take a lower paying and responsibility position. Good luck! I hope that helps! Sandy   « less
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